Three
largest cities of modern Turkey; Istanbul, Ankara and Izmir
have become major urban centers throughout different historical
periods . Following the foundation of the Turkish Republic
after World War I, these cities became the focus for social
and business life. Industry and business clustered in the
established commercial centers of Istanbul and Izmir while
the apparatus of the government built itself a new capital
inland, Ankara. These cities contain the country's most
respected universities, conservatories, theaters, and concert
halls. Jewish and Christian communities, and immigrants
from different parts of the Ottoman Empire add diversity
to the cities contributing to the human mosaic which is
characteristic of Anatolia.
Artists,
actors, poets and journalists hang out in pubs and taverns.
Present day Young Turks plot alternative futures for the
country in coffee houses and reading rooms. Young urbanites
consume the fruits of modernity in glittering shopping malls
and discos. The typical Turkish intellectual urbanite men
and women have many things in common with their kind elsewhere
in the world and they can be easygoing, fun loving companions
on your expeditions. They are well-traveled, bilingual,
and have a high degree of tolerance, yet are ready to voice
their opinions on weighty issues and also believe in famines
in dealing with other human beings, hospitality, compassion
and respect for tradition.
For
visitors the big city offers an abundance of museums and
famous historical sites, night clubs, taverns, and bazaars
filled with silver and copper objects, carpets, and gold
jewelry. Istanbul, of course, is in a category of its own.
A separate introduction to its own unique landscape is necessary.
The
big cities also allow ample opportunity to sample Turkish
cuisine at good, well-established restaurants. Eating is
not taken lightly in Turkey. Dinner in a good restaurant
may take four, five hours in the company of friends and
family, sipping drinks and savoring the endless procession
of hot and cold dishes while engaging in conversations that
begin with light-hearted humor, and often turn into recitations
of mystic poetry, and reminiscences of the past. Turkish
cuisine is next only to French and Chinese in its variety,
healthiness and exquisiteness.
Most
visitors want to experience the old city. According to tradition
each alley or courtyard of the bazaar specialized in a craft
or trade corresponding to the old guilds. From Belgrade
to Damascus the cities of the Ottoman Empire were organized
in communities formed along religious lines. These were
integrated with the rest of the city and the larger society
via networks of locally controlled services such as fire
protection, security and schools. The old city center with
its places of worship, government, trade, and entertainment,
was where the citizens mingled, enjoying the benefits of
the security and bounty of the State while maintaining their
culture and way of life. The churches, the synagogues, and
mosques, the medrese and the mission schools are still found
side by side in the old city center.
The
new city center revolves around high rise international
style office buildings, luxury hotels, well appointed restaurants
and bars, and fashionable shopping districts. Modernization
brought apartment life into the cities, replacing the traditional
fabric which consisted of one to three storey houses overlooking
cobblestone streets and cool courtyards.
Neighborhood
and neighborliness are of great importance in the Turkish
way of life. The introduction of apartment buildings, where
a dozen or so families have joint ownership of the property,
presented city dwellers with new challenges and shifted
the focus of their control over the environment from the
neighborhood to the apartment building with its practical
issues such as heating and maintenance. In three decades,
a highly complex and uniquely Turkish management pattern
evolved with an administrative structure, laws and regulations.
Apartment life, which has been the subject of numerous skits
and humorous television series, is the hub of neighborly
interaction. The old Turkish adage," Don't buy a house,
buy a neighbor" is more true now than ever.
Almost
all neighborhoods have weekly farmers' markets in addition
to small grocery stores, fruit and vegetable stands, butchers,
charcuteries, bakeries and florists. If you happen to see
a farmer's market, stop, explore and taste some of the fruits
and vegetables. This is how they were meant to taste before
civilization came up with genetic engineering!
Settlements
on the outskirts of the big cities are the first stop for
recent immigrants from the countryside. Migration from rural
to urban areas has been a fact of life in Turkey since the
1960s. These settlements, often referred to as "gecekondus"
(that is, "thrown up overnight") house working
class, extended families. Although these communities
lack some city services, most have electricity, and almost
all roof tops are adorned with TV antennas.
Turkish
cities, despite their size, are remarkably safe. The low
crime rate makes it safe to be out after dark and many neighborhoods
are alive well into the night.