The
traditional Turkish city is typically situated along historical
trade routes, notably the silk and spice routes. Built on
lands unfavorable for cultivation, traditional Turkish cities
display unique vernacular architectural styles reflecting
regional conditions and an urbane and sophisticated building
tradition. Although each has a distinctive character of
its own, all have a citadel; one or more grand mosque complexes
containing religious colleges and welfare establishments;
a traditional square corresponding to the western plaza;
a number of old bath houses; traditional guild alleys jutting
away from the bazaar area; and distinct neighborhoods where
you are likely to find fine examples of traditional Turkish
houses, often arranged around a courtyard.
Turks
are wild about soccer. Budding players will be kicking the
ball around in the streets at all hours. In shady squares
the tables of coffee houses are occupied by townsmen, sipping
coffee or tea, playing backgammon and discussing the issues
of the day with their friends and neighbors. It is said
that coffee and the coffee house are among the many contributions
made by Turks to the good life. The sacks of coffee abandoned
at the gates of Vienna by the retreating Ottoman army in
the 16th century introduced the addictive brew to the west
and made the cafes of Vienna world famous.
It
is in these cities that both the high style and the vernacular
culture evolved side by side, giving us the best examples
of Turkish architecture as well as the best of folklore,
traditional arts and crafts, customs and food. These cities
were home to folk heroes such as Koroglu and the poet Sufi
Yunus Emre whose simple verses offer profound meaning to
humanity, and Nasreddin Hodja, the personification of folk
wisdom in his humorous anecdotes which are still widely
quoted and appreciated.
The
popular theater tradition, with its comedians, storytellers
and marionette and shadow puppeteers evolved in the provincial
cities. Performances were given in public squares, at national
and religious festivals, at weddings and fairs, at the inns,
coffee houses and private residences. All shows, including
wrestling matches, were accompanied by music, with conjurers
performing to the sound of the tambourine. Performances
were often interspersed with songs and dances or both. The
dramatic instinct of the Turkish people and the role it
played in daily affairs can be found in the Turkish commedia
dell'arte, "orta oyunu", and the shadow puppet
theater, "Karagoz", which dates from the
15th century. Players performed humorous impromptu productions
wherever there was an audience, impersonating watchmen,
tax collectors, treasure hunters, the intellectual elite
encountering the common folk, and the idiosyncrasies of
ethnic groups, and so contributed, in their own way, to
the continuation of an amicable coexistence.
Provincial
Turkish cities still celebrate the religious holidays, or
bayrams, in the traditional manner. Town elders, following
the holiday greetings, participate in folk dances to the
music of traditional folk instruments. "Greased wrestling"
matches are accompanied by drum and pipe music. Karagoz
puppet shows are often performed during the holidays and
for family celebrations such as the circumcision ceremony.