Coming from Athens, Corinthia is
the first prefecture you come to in the Peloponnese, the first sign of warmth and
excitement. The aromas of the sea, the mountains, the harvest of grapes and currants are
all-encompassing, accompanied by the sound of bees buzzing around the sheds where the
currants are drying. Here you'll rediscover some old Greek myths, learn that Nemean wine
is called "Herakles Blood" and that retsina is the teardrop of a certain wood
nymph. You'll find out about gods, nereids and mortals. Zeus and Apollo. You 'll come upon
columns, sanctuaries and ancient palaces.
Cutting through Corinthia
Just before the Isthmus, to the right,
the road veers off to Loutraki, a town built on the foothills of teh Gerania range on the
soil of Central Greece, yet still part of Corinthia prefecture. The cloudless sky is
reflected in the sea. You watch the carefree movements of the people on the beach,
swimming and tanning themselves in the summer sun. But Loutraki also has hot springs,
whose blessed waters gush from the earth with healing properties. Beyond Loutraki, heading
west, you come to lake Vouliagmeni which is joined to the sea by a narrow channel. Near
Perahora peninsula, with its picturesque bay, you see the first ruins at the back of the
harbour - the Temples of Hera Akraia and Limenia. This place gives one a foretaste of what
to expect from the main sanctuary to Hera in the Peloponnese. Returning to the main
highway for Corinth, you pass the Isthmus, - the avlaki or "courtyard" as we
Greeks call it - and head for one of the most important panhellenic shrines, the sanctuary
of Poseidon at Isthmia (7th c. B.C.), near the village of Kiravrisi, where panhellenic
games were held other year. Adjacent to the archaeological site is a museum containing
important finds. The paintings on glass are most impressive. From here the road leads to
Kehries, the eastern port of Corinth on the Saronic Gulf. Ancient foundations, most of
which are submerged, were excavated at the harbour's two quays. Traces of the temple of
Isis and an early Christian basilica constructed on top of the temple can be
distinguished. Immediately afterwards you reach Baths of Belle Helene (Loutro Elenis), a
resort area with lovely beaches and hot springs; the seaside village of Almiri; and then
Korfos, a hamlet built at the head of a small bay. The region is thick with pine and olive
trees. The coast and the little ports in the vicinity are unforgetable. Hard for a visitor
to leave behind. Here one can find good food and a house to stay in, surrounded by beauty.
Corinth yesterday and today
In the age of myth Corinthia was always being
thrown into turmoil by tribes pouring into the Peloponnese from the Isthmus. With the
setting of the Dorians (9th c. B.C.), Corinth's history began. It beacame a great naval
power and perfected the trireme. The Corinthians were the first to have the idea of
cutting through the Isthmus but were unable to accomplish this feat. Instead they invented
and built a paved slipway, called the diolkos, to haul their boats over the Isthmus. They
were foremost in the arts, particularly ceramics. The 5th century was their most glorious
period. But with the success of Athena as a powerful force, Corinth was eclipsed and fell
into decline. In 146 B.C. the Romans completely destroyed the city. In 67 B.C. Nero tried
his hand at digging through the Isthmus and got as far as a big trench, but works were
abandoned with his death, and not until 1891 - 1893 did the canal finally become a
reality. Invasions and looting by barbarians threw Corinth into a new decline and the city
was not heard from again until the early Byzantine era. In 1521 a B earthquake razed the
city which rose again in about the 11th century. In 1212 the Franks took over, holding on
until 1395 when the Byzantines gained the advantage, only to sell the city to the Knights
of Rhodes five years later. Corinth, with the most of the rest of the Peloponnese, fell to
the Turks in 1458, became the property of the Knights of Malta for a time (1612), passed
to the Venetians in 1687 and was recaptured by the Turks in 1715. They were ousted in
1822.
Today Corinth (Korinthos) ranks among Greece's
most important cities and is a major transportation hub. The church of the Apostle Paul
reminds us of the saint's Letters to the Corinthians and his preaching here. Its long
waterfront is one of the most attractive spots in the city. Its numerous pastry shops,
restaurants, tavernas, bars, cinemas and nightclubs make Corinth lively in both winter and
summer. In September and October a theatre festival is held here with troupes from all
over the Balkans as well as a panhellenic amateur theatre contest.
Ancient Corinth
The ruins of
ancient Corinth are spread out at the foot of the huge rock of Acrocorinth. The monuments
are mainly Roman; only a few are Greek. You can trace the Long Walls which began at the
summit of Acrocorinth and descended all the way to Lechaion (Leheo), the artificial
harbour on the Corinthian Gulf. Lechaion was the start of Lechaion road which led to the
ancient agora. This was paved with flagstones and lined with sidewalks, arcades and shops.
The are of the marketplace was filled with imposing buildings, temples and business
emporia. The Doric temple of Apollo (6th c. B.C. with 1st c. A.D. restorations) stands on
a knoll to the north of the agora; it is the most important monument of that period. To
the northwest of the agora lie the ruins of the 4th century B.C. theatre - which underwent
some changes in the Roman era - and the Roman Odeon. The museum is in the southwest sector
of the site. It contains mosaic floors, Mycenaean and Corinthian pottery, terra cotta
sphinxes, statues of two supernatural beings, relief plaques, the Roman head of the
Goddess Tyche and small objects of various kinds. On the north side of the building one
can see the remains of the fountain of Glauke hewn out of the rock. Glauke, daughter of
King Creon, was the reason why Jason deserted Medea. In revenge Medea sent her as a
wedding gift a poisoned mantle which envelopped the girl in flames the moment she put it
on. In order to save herself she leapt into the fountain which since then has borne her
name.
Acrocorinth
The imposing mass of Acrocorinth (Akrokorinthos)
rises out of the ground at the edge of the ancient city. At the top of the pinnacle, at an
altitude of 575 metres, stood the acropolis of Corinth during ancient and medieval times.
This is the largest and oldest fortress in the Peloponnese. The Franco-Byzantine-Venetian
fortifications (built atop the ancient walls) and Turkish additions have left deep signs
of their successive claims to supremacy. At the summit, which offers a magnificent view,
there were a vast number of shrines and temples dominated by the Temple of Aphrodite.
Lower down is the Upper Peirene Spring. Pausanias mentions that Peirene was a woman who
was transformed into a spring by the tears she shed for her son who had been killed by
Artemis.
The mountains of Corinthia
From Acrocorinth the road continues on
to Nemea. Here the soil is yellow, dry, ideal for the cultivation of grapes. The
whole district is covered with vines. The neighbouring village of Herakleio is a silent
withness to the passing of the mighty Herakles. It was in this area that the legendary
hero slew the fearsome Lion of Nemea. There is not much left of ancient Nemea: three
columns from the temple of Zeus, a few foundations, the outline of a palaestra and, 500
metres down road, the stadium. It was here that the panhellenic Nemean Games were held, in
honour of some local hero. They took place every two years and the victors' reward was a
crown of wild celery. From Nemea the road leads to Stimfalia, a mountain village in the
region of Ziria. The lake no longer harbours man-eating, iron-winged birds; they were
destroyed by Herakles. All that is left is the ruined temple of Artemis and the walls that
encircled the old city. In the region there is also a Frankish church (13th c.) and ruins
of a Frankish castle. At the foothills of Ziria (Mt. Killini, where Pausanias had seen
white blackbirds), between the villages of Goura and Feneos, every year on the second
Sunday of September a big fair is held. The road proceeds to Kastania, a charming mountain
village (alt. 920 m.), surrounded by fir trees. It is one of the most popular places in
Corinthia for a winter holiday. One more revelation amongst the pine - and fir-clad slopes
of Ziria is the village of Trikala (alt. 1,300 m.). The Ziria mountaineers' hostel lies 5
km. from here. Back in Nemea you come next to the pass of Dervenakia where the "Old
Man of the Morea", Kolokotronis, routed a Turkish army. The road for Argos runs
through it, while another road leads to Hilliomodi, Klenia and Agionori, where there is a
medieval castle and a church with lovely frescoes.
Western Corinthia
Scattered along the
National Road between Corinth and Patras are pretty little villages looking onto the sea.
Villages that promise a quiet corner, a dish of good food savouring of the sea, a friendly
word, a swim, hot sand and unforgettable afternoons. You pass a chain of villages -
Perigiali, Assos, Vrahati, Kokoni, Velo - before reaching Kiato, a town in the midst of a
huge orchard. On the shore octopus, the fisherman's favourite food, are hanging, drying in
the sun. There are no antiquities here, just sand and pebbles being tossed tirelessly by
gentle waves. You leave Kiato for a quick visit to the Hellenistic ruins of Sicyon
(Sikiona). Of the ancient city, the ruins of the agora, a temple, the bouleuterion,
theatre and stadium still stand. The Roman baths, the most important monument, have been
repaired and converted into a museum where finds from the site are exhibited. Returning to
the coast road, the villages pass before your eyes in an endless procession. Diminio,
Melissi, Sikia, Xilokastro - any one of them a pleasant place to break your journey. And
all along the way, fruit trees, pines and even palm trees rustle in the breeze. Kamari,
Loutro, Likoporia, Derveni. Bays and coves and lapping waves. Right in the middle of
remembrance and forgetfulness. Now you can sit in a taverna, under a grape arbour or in
the shade of some leafy tree, and enjoy the tasty cooking of Corinthia. A charcoal grilled
fish, wild greens, fried potatoes, cheese, olives, wine under the scented, sun-drenched
vines ... To your health.
Just before the Isthmus, to the right,
the road veers off to Loutraki, a town built on the foothills of teh Gerania range on the
soil of Central Greece, yet still part of Corinthia prefecture. The cloudless sky is
reflected in the sea. You watch the carefree movements of the people on the beach,
swimming and tanning themselves in the summer sun. But Loutraki also has hot springs,
whose blessed waters gush from the earth with healing properties. Beyond Loutraki, heading
west, you come to lake Vouliagmeni which is joined to the sea by a narrow channel. Near
Perahora peninsula, with its picturesque bay, you see the first ruins at the back of the
harbour - the Temples of Hera Akraia and Limenia. This place gives one a foretaste of what
to expect from the main sanctuary to Hera in the Peloponnese. Returning to the main
highway for Corinth, you pass the Isthmus, - the avlaki or "courtyard" as we
Greeks call it - and head for one of the most important panhellenic shrines, the sanctuary
of Poseidon at Isthmia (7th c. B.C.), near the village of Kiravrisi, where panhellenic
games were held other year. Adjacent to the archaeological site is a museum containing
important finds. The paintings on glass are most impressive. From here the road leads to
Kehries, the eastern port of Corinth on the Saronic Gulf. Ancient foundations, most of
which are submerged, were excavated at the harbour's two quays. Traces of the temple of
Isis and an early Christian basilica constructed on top of the temple can be
distinguished. Immediately afterwards you reach Baths of Belle Helene (Loutro Elenis), a
resort area with lovely beaches and hot springs; the seaside village of Almiri; and then
Korfos, a hamlet built at the head of a small bay. The region is thick with pine and olive
trees. The coast and the little ports in the vicinity are unforgetable. Hard for a visitor
to leave behind. Here one can find good food and a house to stay in, surrounded by beauty.
The ruins of
ancient Corinth are spread out at the foot of the huge rock of Acrocorinth. The monuments
are mainly Roman; only a few are Greek. You can trace the Long Walls which began at the
summit of Acrocorinth and descended all the way to Lechaion (Leheo), the artificial
harbour on the Corinthian Gulf. Lechaion was the start of Lechaion road which led to the
ancient agora. This was paved with flagstones and lined with sidewalks, arcades and shops.
The are of the marketplace was filled with imposing buildings, temples and business
emporia. The Doric temple of Apollo (6th c. B.C. with 1st c. A.D. restorations) stands on
a knoll to the north of the agora; it is the most important monument of that period. To
the northwest of the agora lie the ruins of the 4th century B.C. theatre - which underwent
some changes in the Roman era - and the Roman Odeon. The museum is in the southwest sector
of the site. It contains mosaic floors, Mycenaean and Corinthian pottery, terra cotta
sphinxes, statues of two supernatural beings, relief plaques, the Roman head of the
Goddess Tyche and small objects of various kinds. On the north side of the building one
can see the remains of the fountain of Glauke hewn out of the rock. Glauke, daughter of
King Creon, was the reason why Jason deserted Medea. In revenge Medea sent her as a
wedding gift a poisoned mantle which envelopped the girl in flames the moment she put it
on. In order to save herself she leapt into the fountain which since then has borne her
name.
From Acrocorinth the road continues on
to Nemea. Here the soil is yellow, dry, ideal for the cultivation of grapes. The
whole district is covered with vines. The neighbouring village of Herakleio is a silent
withness to the passing of the mighty Herakles. It was in this area that the legendary
hero slew the fearsome Lion of Nemea. There is not much left of ancient Nemea: three
columns from the temple of Zeus, a few foundations, the outline of a palaestra and, 500
metres down road, the stadium. It was here that the panhellenic Nemean Games were held, in
honour of some local hero. They took place every two years and the victors' reward was a
crown of wild celery. From Nemea the road leads to Stimfalia, a mountain village in the
region of Ziria. The lake no longer harbours man-eating, iron-winged birds; they were
destroyed by Herakles. All that is left is the ruined temple of Artemis and the walls that
encircled the old city. In the region there is also a Frankish church (13th c.) and ruins
of a Frankish castle. At the foothills of Ziria (Mt. Killini, where Pausanias had seen
white blackbirds), between the villages of Goura and Feneos, every year on the second
Sunday of September a big fair is held. The road proceeds to Kastania, a charming mountain
village (alt. 920 m.), surrounded by fir trees. It is one of the most popular places in
Corinthia for a winter holiday. One more revelation amongst the pine - and fir-clad slopes
of Ziria is the village of Trikala (alt. 1,300 m.). The Ziria mountaineers' hostel lies 5
km. from here. Back in Nemea you come next to the pass of Dervenakia where the "Old
Man of the Morea", Kolokotronis, routed a Turkish army. The road for Argos runs
through it, while another road leads to Hilliomodi, Klenia and Agionori, where there is a
medieval castle and a church with lovely frescoes.
Scattered along the
National Road between Corinth and Patras are pretty little villages looking onto the sea.
Villages that promise a quiet corner, a dish of good food savouring of the sea, a friendly
word, a swim, hot sand and unforgettable afternoons. You pass a chain of villages -
Perigiali, Assos, Vrahati, Kokoni, Velo - before reaching Kiato, a town in the midst of a
huge orchard. On the shore octopus, the fisherman's favourite food, are hanging, drying in
the sun. There are no antiquities here, just sand and pebbles being tossed tirelessly by
gentle waves. You leave Kiato for a quick visit to the Hellenistic ruins of Sicyon
(Sikiona). Of the ancient city, the ruins of the agora, a temple, the bouleuterion,
theatre and stadium still stand. The Roman baths, the most important monument, have been
repaired and converted into a museum where finds from the site are exhibited. Returning to
the coast road, the villages pass before your eyes in an endless procession. Diminio,
Melissi, Sikia, Xilokastro - any one of them a pleasant place to break your journey. And
all along the way, fruit trees, pines and even palm trees rustle in the breeze. Kamari,
Loutro, Likoporia, Derveni. Bays and coves and lapping waves. Right in the middle of
remembrance and forgetfulness. Now you can sit in a taverna, under a grape arbour or in
the shade of some leafy tree, and enjoy the tasty cooking of Corinthia. A charcoal grilled
fish, wild greens, fried potatoes, cheese, olives, wine under the scented, sun-drenched
vines ... To your health.